CLIMBING AROUND BURLINGTON

“

In Chittenden County, Vermont’s rock is predominantly green schist and limestone. Venture further, and you’ll find diamond quartzite and granite. Whatever the geology, climbing in Vermont is thought provoking, featured, and technical with tricky crux sequences that will challenge you to master unique and dynamic body positions, and reward you panoramic views of the Green Mountains and Lake Champlain from above the lush forest canopy. Whether trad routes, sport climbing, top roping, or bouldering are your jam, Vermont’s crags are rife with possibilities. Bolton Quarry, with its boreholes and blast fractures, is a sport climbing mini-mecca less than 20 minutes from Burlington. The classic cracks of Upper West Bolton were the birthplace of Vermont climbing. Lower West Bolton has excellent top roping and trad routes. It’s the go-to for new climbers and a great place to try a first lead. Also in Bolton, Lower 82 crag dishes out moderate sport climbs, while upper 82 crag has the high concentration of crimpy 5.12s in the state. Bolton Dome, which has grades for everybody, was protected by non-profit Crag-VT with the largest loan in the history of the Access Fund.

But you don’t need to leave the Queen City to tie in. Less than a mile from downtown a spectacular and unique limestone crag, Lone Rock Point, is home to difficult sport routes and magnificent Lake Champlain views.

If you prefer a crash pad to rope and harness, wander Vermont’s woods. They’re filled with boulders deposited 10,000 years ago when the glaciers retreated from Vermont. Bolton has a high concentration of problems. Venture further north and you can practically park at the base of geological erratics in Smugglers’ Notch, which is a bouldering amusement park. For beta, visit cragvt.com, where you can also find guides and indoor climbing gyms.

“